Ingeniously designed for optimal use of the limited space, the compartment was fitted with a shower and toilet, a small sofa and a comfortable single seater which converted into bunks.  The train has 24 compartments in four  named coaches (Oryx, Kokerboom, Springbok, Meerkat), each decorated in the pastel colours of the desert and with a frieze made of desert stones and containing a small brass plaque depicting the name theme of the coach - ours was 'Oryx', a graceful buck with long slender horns.

 Promptly at 14h00 (this was a German colony for many years) the train moved off with a gentle clink of glasses as we gathered in the Spitzkoppe bar for the first of many drinks. Tertius, the train manager, assembled the train crew (except for the driver, whom we were assured was at his post) for introductions.  The dedication and enthusiasm of this team of young people for their country and their work was apparent from the beginning, and it was perhaps this more than any other single feature of the journey which made it so unique. As we sat enjoying their commentary and hospitality, the train moved at its sedate pace through the surprisingly varied and interesting desert landscape.

 Each member of the train crew performed various tasks.  Angela, a lovely young girl from the nomadic Damara tribe, was tour guide, barmaid, and waitress (she also befriended and looked after my 5 year old son).  At our first stop at the Kahn valley in the late afternoon, we walked into the veld to see remains from the wartime army camp, whilst Tertius pointed out features of the landscape and the flora and fauna.   Angela spoke of the ancient history of her tribe and language, and at her request, we fell silent to listen to the sounds of the desert. The utter stillness and peace blanketed us, soft and warm and comforting, until, in a moment of surrealism, we were jolted back into the 21st century as someone's cellphone summonsed attention, a stark reminder of how this ancient land has adapted itself to modern life.  

We were shown the different plants and how the tribespeople used them in their quest for survival in the harsh landscape. Before boarding the train, we played 'African Chess', in which opposing teams use stones cast into hollows in the sand to represent cattle which they have to steal from each other.  

As night fell a four course dinner was served in the plush Welwitschia restaurant car.  Namibian cooking draws heavily upon local ingredients, and game, fish, and steak were all offered along with a small but well chosen selection of excellent award winning South African wines.  After a memorable dining experience, Tertius invited us into the refreshing clear desert air to enjoy an experience that most people never have - seeing the constellations sparkling through unpolluted air with no ambient light to detract from their clarity.

 After a full cooked breakfast served as the train neared Windhoek, we made our last stop at Okapuka game ranch. We transferred from the train in open vehicles and drove through that unique African early morning cool resplendent with the promise of the heat of the day to come.  From the safety of a substantial hide, we saw untamed lions feeding and marvelled at the raw strength and beauty of the king of the jungle. From there we went to the boma and sat enjoying coffee whilst a tame ostrich kept us under observation through its beady eyes. All too soon it was time to board the train for the last short stretch to Windhoek's historic station where we arrived at 10h00 and said our farewells to the train crew.

 As we left the train and added our grateful comments in the visitors' book, I noticed that someone had foolishly attempted to compare this service with South Africa's Blue Train. There is no comparison - the Blue Train is luxury point to point transportation, the Desert Express an experience in hospitality, and an insight into this complex land and its people.   

Before leaving the station, I looked around the Railway Museum, located in the station and containing well laid out and labelled memorabilia and models relating to the country's railway history from early days up to independence.   

The last night was spent at the Kalahari Sands Hotel, a Windhoek landmark in the town centre and close to all amenities. Our large and comfortable room faced West, affording a splendid view of an  African sunset in colours ranging from salmon pink to burnt copper, against the dramatic background of darkening thunderclouds which promised much needed rain. 

In the uniquely Namibian setting of Joe's Beer House we sat on rough wooden tables and selected dinner from a menu including warthog, zebra, and springbok, as well as more conventional Teutonic fare such as Kassler rib and eisbein, all washed down by copious draughts of Namibia's own Windhoek beer in a relaxed and congenial atmosphere.  Late in the evening some friendly locals joined us. When we asked them if it was safe to walk back to the hotel (we needed to walk off the massive portions of food) about a mile down the road, we were pleasantly surprised to be assured that it was indeed quite safe, despite which they offered us a lift in a gesture typical of the generosity and hospitality which had marked our stay in Namibia, and saw us safely back to the hotel, a pleasant ending to a very different and enjoyable stay in one of the few countries in Southern Africa that remain very safe, welcoming and organised. 

Our trip was arranged by Patty Maine of Maine Travel Promotions, Cape Town.

 Flights from Cape Town to Windhoek and Swakopmund by Air Namibia.

Strand Hotel, PO Box 20 Swakopmund. Tel : +264 64 400315

Walvis Bay Cruise by Mola Mola Safaris : mola-mola@iafrica.com.na

Quad biking by Dare Devil Adventures : daredadv@iafrica.com.na

Desert Express (Windhoek) : dx@transnamib.com.na

Okapuka ranch : okapuka@iafrica.com.na

Kalahari Sands Hotel, Windhoek.
Tel : + 264 61 222300